Slieve League Loop Walk

Slieve League (Sliabh Liag) sea cliffs in the south of County Donegal are among the highest sea cliffs in Europe, standing nearly three times taller than the famous Cliffs of Moher in County Clare. They offer breath taking views across Donegal Bay and Donegal. The terrain is rugged. Are you up for a six hour hike?

Me and Paul signed up with High Hopes Hiking for the Slieve League loop walk in March. This is run by David who offers very popular guided walks in the area. We would recommend joining a walking group for some of the mountain hikes around Black Pig Lodge as the terrain can be tricky (boggy) and the paths are not always well-marked. There is also something very nice about going on a hike and meeting new people.

We meet at the Slieve League Visitors Centre at the allotted time (just round the corner from The Rusty Mackerel Pub and Teelin Pier). Its a pleasant 1 hour 20 minute drive from Black Pig Lodge. I must admit, the weather had that heavy moody look about it though, and I was glad of my extra layers and rainproof coat. A minibus ferried us from the Visitor's Centre to the start of the walk (Bunglass Point just before the Sliabh Liag Viewing Platform).

Here we climb up the well-marked steps that take us up the cliff. They are pretty steep and I need to stop to catch my breath a couple of times. There are spectacular views across Donegal Bay.

Thankfully, as we climbed higher, the mist cleared to reveal the craggy rock faces of the cliffs. We are also able to see Benbulben Mountain, and at Carrigan Head, the Napoleonic-era signal tower.

Eventually, the steps come to an end. At this point, most people turn back. However, you can continue across less well-marked ground towards the part of the walk known as One Man's Pass. I will be honest and say that the terrain is pretty tricky, especially during the winter months. The area is a mix of bog and rock, and as such there is a certain amount of scrambling required. Care needs to be taken as the ground can be slippery. Sensible waterproof hiking boots are a must.

We reach One Man's Pass, aptly named because of its narrow path. The terrain drops away each side. On one side is Donegal Bay, on the other, the vast lowland landscape of southern Donegal.

After a spot of lunch we continue to the trig point, a small concrete pillar on high ground installed by the Ordnance Survey in Ireland in the 1930s. But today it serves as an iconic marker for walkers and a photo opportunity.

From the trig point we found our way back to the start of The Pilgrim's Way. Sliabh Liag has been revered as a sacred mountain and a site of Christian pilgrimage for over a thousand years. We passed the ruins of a small chapel and a holy well. Slowly, and carefully, because The Pilgrim's Way is not well-maintained, we made our way back down the mountain to the Visitor's Centre. In fact, just before the end of the walk, I took a tumble and was left with a bloodied nose, so its easy enough to slip. But no major harm done.

After six hours of hiking I must say me and Paul were pretty tired. We said our farewells to our fellow walkers, and then made our way back to Donegal Town (about a 45 minute drive). Donegal Town is a bustling town, popular with tourists, and home to the iconic companies Magees and Triona, both famous for their Irish heritage clothing, wool throws and tweed jackets. We, though, headed straight to the very cosy Olde Castle Seafood Bar for delicious (and well-earned) fish and chips and a glass of wine!

We sat in the corner, with our glowing, weather beaten faces, feeling exhausted and immensely satisfied.

You can also experience the cliffs from the sea. Read our Blog on Sliabh Liag boats trips.