Sliabh Liag (Slieve League) Boat Trips

The south coast of County Donegal is easy to drive to from Black Pig Lodge and very much worth a visit, rain or shine.

And it was raining when family came to visit us in July. But undeterred we set off armed with jumpers, rain coats, sunscreen and sunglasses (always be prepared in Ireland) to drive to Teelin Pier, to catch a boat ride. The drive takes about 1 hour 20 minutes but this is a day trip which takes you through Donegal Craft Village, Donegal Town, Killybegs Harbour, and past the beautiful sandy beach of Fintra. We arrived in Carrick, just 5 minutes from Teelin Pier, at lunch time and so decided to stop for lunch at The Rusty Mackerel. The Rusty Mackerel is a warm and welcoming pub serving hearty fayre to locals and tourists alike, and is a great stop off if you are either heading for the boat tour of Sliabh Liag (Slieve League) or intending to walk up the mountain to experience the clifftop views.

The Rusty Mackerel Pub

Replenished with hearty soup and chowder, we drove down to Teelin Pier and parked up. We had already booked our 2 hour boat trip with Sliabh Liag Boat Trips via their website, and we chatted to Donal at the kiosk whilst waiting for the previous boat trip to return. The boat trip company has been running many years and they offer sightseeing tours, private trips, and evening angling trips. Right on time the Nuala Star with Paddy at the helm came chugging round the harbour wall full of happy passengers. We noticed that some of the passengers were clutching towels. They had been swimming. In the sea. In the cold wet rain. Brave souls, braver than me! There is the option to swim from the boat if you want to. I did not.

We boarded the boat and off we went, chugging along the coastline of south Donegal, rolling and lurching about in the wild Atlantic's waves. It was exhilarating to say the least! And the cliffs looked beautifully atmospheric in the misty rain.

Its good to see Ireland in all weathers. Her mood and outlook chops and changes by the hour at times, and you haven't really fully experienced Ireland until you have been wrapped in her mizzle and mist.

Although the boat rocked and bobbed erratically, we felt safe in Paddy the skipper's hands. He has been sailing the waters for donkey's years and knows them like the back of his hand. We sailed past the dramatic sea cliffs and waved to walkers at the top. The Sliabh Liag (Slieve League) Mountain is Ireland's highest sea cliff, standing 2000 feet (601 metres), and is much less known than the Cliffs of Moher (and therefore much less touristy). We spotted the Napoleonic watch tower built in the 1800s and the sheep, tiny white dots, clinging precariously to the steep cliff edges.

On the way back to the pier the weather improved and we relaxed to the hum of the engine whilst staring out to sea. Alas, no dolphins this time, perhaps the sea was too rough for them. Just a long wide horizon of sea stretching all the way to the America.

The Nuala Star

Despite the poor weather conditions, everyone on board (including a 4 month old baby), enjoyed the ride. Thrilling, informative and very dramatic, beautiful scenery. In a way, I'm glad I got to see the cliffs cloaked in their sea mist. It all added to the adventure.

Once back on dry land we decided to drive back towards Donegal Town and once there mooched around the various shops: Triona and Magee in particular to look at their very beautiful tweed and wool products. Then we headed to the Olde Castle Seafood Bar (you can find them on Facebook). It is a very popular place to eat in Donegal Town and its worth noting that they close at 8pm. We had to wait 20 minutes to be seated, so we sipped a drink at the bar, but once we were seated in our own private booth, the food was well worth the wait. I ordered lobster (from Mullaghmore) for the first time in my life and was not disappointed.

A visit to County Donegal is a very manageable drive from Black Pig Lodge and there is much to see and enjoy along its southern coastline. So, schedule a day trip during your stay with us, take in the mountains, beaches, towns, pubs and restaurants. And don't be put off by dark clouds and drizzle, I can assure you that you'll still have a great time.